The Craft in Action | Silver Triangle Leatherworks

The Craft in Action

Leather has been used for hundreds—if not thousands—of years, dating back to the days of early humans. Physical evidence suggests that even cavemen wore garments made from hide. Today, we’ve reached a point in society where nearly 99% of a slaughtered cow is repurposed. From shoes and clothing to seat coverings and even pharmaceuticals, leather and its byproducts sustain modern life. The point here isn’t to lecture—it’s to remember that natural materials still support our everyday existence. And let’s be honest: men in leather are fucking hot.

My chosen trade is working with hide within the BDSM and leather communities. I hand-make everything you can imagine within those boundaries—and trust me, some things you probably can’t.

My fellow artisans and I all start with the same raw material: leather hides. I stick to four key variables in my process. As I walk you through them, I hope to give you a better understanding of the many differences in leather and why they matter.

1. Type of Leather

There are hundreds of types of leather, varying by animal, cut, weight, and tanning process. I won’t bore you, but let’s break down the basics.

Animal Source I use exclusively cattle hide—known for its durability and abundance. My hides come from Argentina, where nearly 99% of the animal is repurposed. The list of byproducts is extensive: food, leather goods, gelatin, cosmetics, sutures, soap, and even insulin.

2. Hide Cuts

Leather hides can be processed into various cuts, each with its own purpose:

• Whole Hide
• Sides (2)
• Double Shoulder (1)
• Single Shoulder (2)
• Bend (2) – one side of the hide minus the shoulder and belly
• Double Bend (1)
• Belly (2) – used for upholstery and garment leather (e.g., chaps and shirts)
• Single Butt (2) – mostly used in saddle making

The shoulders are ideal for harnesses—they’re the second toughest part of the hide, just behind the butt, which is often too stiff for BDSM gear. Most hand-made equipment uses shoulder cuts for their balance of strength and flexibility.

3. Leather Weight

Leather is processed into 16 different weights, ranging from 1 oz to 16 oz. Here’s a quick breakdown:

I typically use 3–5 oz and 8–9 oz weights for my work.

4. Skiving and Grain

Here’s where things get interesting. Leather weight refers to thickness—but hides aren’t uniformly thick. That’s where skiving comes in: a machine evens out the hide to a designated weight.

After skiving, you’re left with:

• Top-Grain Side – the best cut, smooth and durable
• Organ Side – rougher, less refined

You can have a shoulder cut in any weight from 1–2 oz to 9–10 oz and beyond. I prefer 7–8 oz or 8–9 oz shoulders, depending on availability. The fur side is smooth after processing; the organ side remains rougher. You get the idea.

Processed Leather: The Truth

The leftover hide from skiving isn’t wasted. Larger scraps are pressed and textured under heat to create what you see in many commercial products. Technically, it’s still leather—but it’s the cheaper, processed kind. If you see a pebbly surface, that’s processed leather.

Then there’s the bottom-tier stuff: scraps ground down, mixed with glue, and pressed into sheets. This is what’s often labeled “Genuine Leather.” Technically accurate, but misleading.

At Silver Triangle Leatherworks, I give you my solemn oath: we use only original, Top-Grain leather. You’ll recognize it by its smooth surface and natural imperfections. Every hide has flaws—scars from barbed wire, old brands, or life itself. I love showcasing those scars. They remind me that not even a cow lives a perfect life.

Custom Work, Custom Fit

I don’t stock products—I stock hides. Every piece is made to order. That allows me to offer custom fits at lower costs than my competitors. A hundred guys might have a 34” chest, but their shoulders and stomachs? All different.

Most harnesses can be made in about four hours, like the Master’s Harness. Simpler designs, like the traditional “X,” take about thirty minutes.

Women’s Harnesses: A New Frontier

If you read my first blog, The Basics of BDSM Leather History, you’ll remember the general origins of modern harnesses. It’s amazing to see how far we’ve come—and even more fascinating to explore the rise of women’s harnesses.

Here’s what I’ve found:

Fashion Journalism & Cultural Commentary

• Loomwears: Traces leather breast harnesses from punk rebellion to high fashion, with designers like Alexander McQueen and Rick Owens reimagining them as luxury statements.
• Stanford Mint: Highlights harnesses in mainstream fashion—runways, festivals, and pop icons like Taylor Swift. Vogue even offered styling tips to avoid “fashion faux pas.”
• Crimson Publishers: Explores leather’s symbolic role in rebellion and counterculture, from protective gear to status-driven fashion.

Collage & Visual Culture

• Queer and feminist zines: Use harness imagery to explore bodily autonomy, erotic power, and gender subversion.
• Pinterest and Tumblr archives: Reveal mixed-media works layering harnesses with lace, chains, and handwritten text—critiquing beauty norms while celebrating kink aesthetics.

Timeline of Women’s Harnesses

• 1970s–1980s: Punk and glam rock—spiked, chained, rebellious
• 1990s: Grunge minimalism—functional, stripped-down styles
• 2000s–2010s: High fashion—luxury materials, avant-garde silhouettes
• Present: Gender-fluid accessories—seen in streetwear, pop culture, and collage art

Part 3:How Custom Leather Gear Fosters Personal Expression in Kink

© 2025 Sean Hogan, Owner of Silver Triangle Leatherworks. All rights reserved.