What Designates True Leather.
I am asked all the time what designates what real leather is, so here is the technical breakdown on the 5 types of leather in order of quality. (3)
1) Full-Grain
2) Top-Grain
3) Split-Grain
4) Genuine Leather*
5) Bonded Leather*
When purchasing leather, you really should know what you are buying. As all leathers are not created equal.
Here at Silver Triangle Leatherworks we use nothing but Top-Grain leather. Never Split Leather, never Genuine Leather, not Bonded Leather. We stick to Top-Grain Leather because of its flexibility and the fact it’s the second highest grade leather cut there is without being too overly expensive. “Crafted for passion, designed for endurance.”
*These are not technically leather grades. Instead, they’re terms in the leather industry that have come to be widely used among today’s consumers. You may also run into a material called “corrected grain leather,” which is leather that has had the grain smoothed with abrasives.
Having the knowledge of the different grades and types of leather, you should never be unhappy with your purchase.
So, how exactly is leather graded?
First thing is to split the hide.
A section of cowhide (1) is run through a splitter that trims the thickness of the leather depending on what final product is needed.
For example, we always use the same cut, Double Shoulders. But in 2 different thicknesses. A 4-5 oz (1.6mm – 2mm thickness) (2) where we need pliability or a product that is not as stiff as the 7-9oz (2.8mm – 3.6mm thickness). We utilize the shoulder as it is the second strongest section of the hide. Just so you know, the Butt, is the strongest but very stiff and hard to work with.
The hide is split into two parts, the top, which is the most valuable, and the bottom, which may be even further split to make the various grades.
So, the first grade of leather that can be cut is the Full-Grain, the most expensive and sought after cut. It is used for footwear, furniture upholstery, bags and various accessories.
The second type of leather they can get is the Top-Grain Leather. It is the second most expensive leather and can be utilized for the same products as a Full-Grain Leather, but at a reduced price.
Both full- and top-grain leathers are made from the best quality part of the hide.
Full-Grain is less processed but not much. This leaves the Full-Grain of the hide intact including any blemishes. Because it is not overly processed, it is absorbent to oils and water. Although it is sought after because of the beautiful patina that will happen over time.
Top-Grain Leather on the other hand is sanded and buffed to a uniform finish then processed into a sealed finished product the does not absorb oils or water.
After splitting, the remaining lower layers yield split leather or, when heavily processed, genuine leather.
The Bottom of the Hide — Split and Genuine Leathers
Split-grain leather actually doesn’t contain any of the hide’s natural markings or grain. The most common split-grain leather is suede, which is used to make shoes, handbags, jackets, and other goods where a soft and pliable product is preferred.
What Does Genuine Leather Mean?
Although technically leather, it isn’t as durable or beautiful as high-quality leather, and it is considered by experts in the industry to be a very low-quality product.
Genuine leather is leather made from the very bottom of the cut. It is heavily processed and contains none of the original hide’s natural grain.
Bonded Leather
Bonded leather isn’t technically leather at all. Instead, it is an amalgam of leather dust, vinyl, leather scraps, plastic and glue that have been bonded together through a complex process. Like genuine leather, it’s a relatively cheap product that doesn’t stand the test of time.
Bonded leather is commonly used to create cheap upholstered items and low-quality handbags, clothing, and other inexpensive leather goods.
In fact, waxed canvas and vegan leather are more durable and of higher quality than most genuine and bonded leather products.
Using What You’ve Learned When Buying Leather Goods
The next time you decide to purchase leather goods, look for a stamp on the underside or raw area of the leather to ensure you’re getting the highest quality leather product for your money. If you're wondering if a particular product is really leather, give it the “fire test.” Wave a lighter quickly on the broad side of the product.
If it’s fake, it will shrivel and burn. Real leather is very fire-resistant.
CAUTION! Please don’t set fire to someone’s product, please ask for a sample or a piece of scrap, otherwise please refer to the second way of distinguishing the difference
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Full or top-grain leather has a natural, often imperfect surface with visible pores and fibers, while split leather comes from the lower layers of the hide and has a more uniform or artificially embossed appearance with no natural grain.
Good leather can last a lifetime, so purchasing a full-grain leather product is worth the extra money it may cost up front.
A full-grain leather product, adequately cared for, can provide years and years of usefulness to its owner and will grow more beautiful as it develops the warm patina for which high-quality full-grain leathers are known.
FAQs about Leather Quality
Is thin leather bad?
If the leather is full grain, then there's no need for concern. Full grain leather comes from the topmost layer of the hide, where the fibers are tightly packed, making it extremely durable. Even when cut thin, full grain leather can withstand the wear and tear that typical leather goods endure over their lifetime. In some cases, like with zip folios and pen cases, we thin full grain leather to stitch zippers and reduce weight, while still maintaining strength.
Many people associate thin leather with low quality due to bad experiences with mass-produced leather goods. But that’s only true for certain types of leather. For instance, a thin product made from genuine or bonded leather is a poor choice because these types of leather have low fiber density, which compromises durability.
What is the best type of leather:
The highest quality leather is full-grain leather, which comes from the top layer of the hide and includes the entire natural grain. It’s the most durable, breathable, and beautiful type of leather, known for developing a rich patina over time. Right below full-grain is top-grain leather, which is slightly sanded and treated for a more uniform appearance but still offers strength and flexibility.
Lowest Grade of leather:
The lowest grade of leather is bonded leather, which is made from leftover leather scraps, plastic, and glue pressed together into sheets. It contains little to no actual hide and lacks the strength, durability, and aging qualities of higher-grade leathers. Bonded leather often cracks or peels over time and is commonly used in inexpensive furniture or mass-produced goods.
A quick overview
Full-grain – Best / strongest / natural grain / ages beautifully
Top-grain – High quality / flexible / refined surface
Split-grain – Soft / used for suede
Genuine – Low grade / heavily processed
Bonded – Not real leather
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